Tourists visiting Italy are increasingly finding that their traditional pasta and pizza dishes are being prepared by foreign workers, highlighting the significant role migrants play in the country’s culinary industry. In 2023, a notable 34% of newly hired cooks and pizza makers in Italy came from outside the European Union. This is a sharp rise from the 23% recorded in 2014, according to research conducted by Milan’s Bocconi University. These non-EU workers are essential to the functioning of many restaurants, especially in the mid-range and lower-end sectors, where they take on roles that many Italians may be unwilling to fill.
Why are immigrants filling Italy’s kitchens? Immigrants are often more willing to accept the long hours and relatively low wages that the restaurant industry offers. As Colombian-born chef Roy Caceres, who now runs a Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome, explained, the industry heavily relies on foreign workers. Many of these migrants start out in lower positions, such as dishwashers, and work their way up to higher roles in the kitchen. However, it’s not uncommon for them to prepare iconic Italian dishes like carbonara and Amatriciana without ever tasting them, as they may be Muslim and therefore avoid pork, a key ingredient in these meals.
This increase in migrant workers coincides with several broader societal trends in Italy. The country is experiencing a decline in enrolment at culinary schools, and many young Italian chefs are leaving the country for better wages and working conditions abroad. This exodus is happening at a time when Italy’s population is both ageing and shrinking, further increasing the country’s reliance on foreign workers not just in the restaurant industry but also in construction, agriculture, and caregiving.
Italy’s shrinking population has far-reaching consequences across many industries, and the food sector is no exception. With fewer young Italians entering hospitality, the need for non-EU workers to fill these gaps continues to grow. In fact, 58% of newly hired kitchen assistants, including cleaners and dishwashers, are migrants, reflecting their growing importance in the industry.
Despite efforts by the current government to promote food sovereignty and protect Italian culinary traditions, the reality is that the country’s restaurant sector is increasingly dependent on migrants. This trend is not likely to reverse soon, given Italy’s demographic challenges. Is Italy’s food industry sustainable with this trend? Yes, for now. The reliance on migrant workers is a necessary solution to Italy’s labour shortages in the hospitality sector. However, it raises questions about the long-term sustainability of this model, especially as more Italians seek opportunities abroad, and fewer young people are entering the field.
Italy’s culinary industry is evolving, with immigrants playing a key role in keeping restaurants running. As the population continues to age and shrink, it is expected that migrants will continue to fill essential roles in the kitchen, helping to maintain Italy’s famed culinary traditions, even if behind the scenes.